
There are several methods of limiting travel during grazing. Loose grazing or hobbling are the best choices. Picketing should be used only if the other two choices are not feasible. Picketing is hard on range area, potentially harmful to horses, and is not allowed by some land management agencies. However, picketing is satisfactory in suitable terrain and may be the only alternative.
Unless you're particularly fond of walking, always keep a wrangle horse contained near camp whenever horses are turned loose to graze. Tying two wrangle horses is better than one. Most horses get nervous and excited when left alone and may paw the ground or cause other damage. Usually two horses will remain relatively calm even if the other horses are out of sight. Also a single horse is more likely to break loose. Then you are on foot. (The tied or picketed wrangle horses must be rotated to insure an adequate grazing period.) Almost any group of horses has at least one animal that wouldn't leave the rest under any condition. If time is short, this horse could be used as a wrangle horse and turned loose after the rest are tied for the night.
Bells help keep track of horses and make strayed horses much easier to find. When turning horses loose to graze, bell all mares, loners or animals that have a tendency to stray. Bell straps should fit reasonably snug to prevent them from getting caught. Bells with a higher pitch seem to carry farther in the woods. If several horses are belled, bells of different pitches should be used. Weather conditions vary the distance that sound travels.
Hobbles are one method of restricting a horse's movement so it won't travel great distances, yet permit enough freedom to graze. Only a grazing hobble with at least a one-inch strap should be used. Hobbles are more effective on some horses than on others. Some horses soon learn to travel quite rapidly wearing hobbles. These horses can be slowed down by placing a half hobble on a rear leg and a sideline fastened to the hobble in front. When horses are turned out to graze, all should be hobbled if any are hobbled. A hobbled horse will sore himself trying to keep up with horses running free.

Picketing horses is a satisfactory method in suitable terrain. The area must be free of obstacles so the rope won't tangle. You will have fewer problems if you picket by a front foot rather than from the halter or neck. A half-hobble with a swivel, or snap and swivel should be used to attach the picket rope. The other end of the rope should have a loop tied with a non-slip knot so that it will rotate around the picket pin rather than wind up. Some people make up special picket ropes which are pulled through discarded plastic garden hoses. The hose prevents rope bums and the extra stiff ness helps keep it from tangling. The pin or stake must be driven in deep enough to stand considerable strain and must be moved frequently to protect against over grazing and trampling. Picket stakes should be removed when breaking camp. Some horsemen picket the leader of a string with the idea that the other horses won't leave the leader if turned loose. In that respect this method usually works well; however, in a severely "herd-bound" string, the other horses will eat all of the grass within the picket circle.
Popular camp spots, grass meadows and areas along the trails can be
exposed to heavy grazing pressure throughout the season. Over grazing
contributes to a reduction in vigor of grass, tramped-out appearance of
meadows, opportunities for unwanted weeds to grow, or degradation of an
area. Avoid grazing grass that is down to short clumps. Rotate
stock throughout an area. Move pickets frequently. Some areas
have insufficient grass so it may be necessary to pack in feed. Processed
grain, alfalfa pellets or heat-treated hay cubes should be used.
Hay is not allowed in some wilderness or other backcountry areas because
it may contain weeds. During the planning stage of your trip, consult
with the responsible agency to learn of graze availability in the area
of your planned trip.
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